Method and apparatus for bellows pockets



May 3, 1938.

A. H. WEIS METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR BELLOWS POCKETS Filed July 31, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR. ALBERTH W275 BY W ATTORNEY j May 3, 1938.

A. H. WEIS 2,116,371

METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR BELLOWS POCKETS Filed July 31, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 I N V EN TOR. ALBERTH VVEIS AQ-3w Patented May 3, 1938 Q 7 r I UNITED STATES PATENT OFF-ICE METHOD AND-APPARATUS ron BELLOWS POGKE'I'S Albert H. Wels, Nyack, N. Y., assignor to Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Go., New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application July 31, 1936, Serial No. 93,669

v 9Claims. (Cl. 112-136) This invention relates to improvements in pocket to the garment. This third stitching opmethods and apparatus for advantageously eration was often done by hand with needle and stitching a strip or strips to a body, and to an thread toeifect concealed stitching, to prevent improved form of edging or strip. any stitches from showing on the outside of the In itspresent/ most useful form it relates to garment,;or in some instances was accomplished a specialstructure on a sewing machine, adapted with an invisible or blind stitch machine, turnto open, fold, and guide a prefolded bellows strip ing the raw edge as the stitching proceeds, while relative to a body, andto stitch the so-condiit is guided tothe stitching instrumentalities. tioned strip and body together. Bellows pockets made in this manner and method Heretofore, it has been possible to make sorequire great skill in the tailoring trade, and as 10 called bellows pockets, which are capable of lya resultthereof, have been only used on the'moi'e ing close to the main body of a coat when empty expensive garments.

or nearly so and of moving into an extended posi- With the present invention, it is now possible tion when filled, only by a plurality of awkward to apply this modern and desirable bellows pocket I hand operations with ununiform results. to the lower or popular priced line of garments; ill

It is an important object of the present invensince manufacture can be accomplished unition to provide a method and apparatus for p'roformly by inexperienced operators, and a large ducing bellows pockets, ready for assembly to a production is possible a fewhours after the imgarment, economically and uniformly in a single proved process and apparatus of the present inoperation. vention is put into use.

In the manufacture of modern clothing, there Broadly, this is accomplished by providing the is a demand for a'be'llows pocket that can be well-known Metropolitan machine, or the like, stitched to the garment with concealed 'stitches, having two needles and two loopers and a suitso that no stitches will show on the outside of the able feeding mechanism designed and arranged coat, or other garment to which the pocket is to feed the work from the stitching instrumenapplied. H r nly v r ats. top coats. tallties so as to feed along straight lines as wen; andsack coats','and especially sportswear of ex- 'as around curves or rounded corners. and

pensive ype, have been pr vi d with this belsmoothly lay a bias cut or elastic strip of material lows pocket since it could not previously be pro- .over and around the raw edge of the pocket. duced on a production or inexpensive basis, even leaving a xtension and folded portion under- 80 though this advanced tailored finish of bellows heath of sumcient width to permit the pocket D k ts p s ts a v y a pp leaving to betattached to clothing with a subsequent Suitable pa for pocketed articles, Without stitching operation whereby all of the stitches are effecting the usual bulged or bulky appearance concealed except the two lines of needle threads a the outside of the garment. To accomplish this, Show on th t of the 'work, one line of which the pocket material is not secured to the garment passes through the folded marginal section of the itself, but throu h th medium of a bellows bias strip and the other line a suitable distance thereor elastic strip which is folded upon itselfso as from in parallel relation. By selecting threads to c lapse and expand sim to an accordion which match the materials,-these two lines of pleat or fold when the pocket is put t stitching scarcely show. When they match the 40 According to the method in 88mm] 1156, Prior materials, they are inconspicuous so that when to the present invention, this is accomplished, by th bellows pocket is'sewn to the inside of a first, stitching a strip to one side of'the pocket 3, a neat and sightly finish so ,much desired material along the right angle edges and around by the clothing anufa turers is produced, g-

one corner thereof joining these edges. Then m the garments more ttractive and saleable. I

by folding the strip over on'the other face of the pocket material, it was again stitched down with a Second Sewing t s the front sections ofcoats, to coverup and hide lines of stitching. This method was, costly and th .pockgts, some f m h re made of canvas it was difficult to maintain uniformity in h and other strong materials, hanging loose on the spacing of the stitch lines relative to one another inside f the} coat between the outside fabric and and the form t n of Pocket the lining, but with the present improvements in the like. Then in another operation, the strip the manufacture ofbellows pockets, skeleton of material stitched to the pocket was folded coats withopt lining can now be produced ecu-- back upon itself, ready for the stitching, of 'the nomlcally and neatly for all grades of clothing.

Heretofore, production of bellows pocketswas so costly that it was cheaper to provide linings to this object In the old method of producing bellows pockets for clothing, special careful folding of the bias strip was necessary during or subsequent to the individual stitching operations in order to conceal the rough edges of the bias strip or to form a connector section in the stirp for neat final uniting of the bellows pocket to the body of the garment, all of which called for the use of expensive highly skilled labor and even then resulted in an ununiform product.

In this connection, also, it was desirable and great care was necessarily exercised to have the margin of the connector section of the strip end short of or inside the perimetric section of the pocket body to be fully concealed thereby after final assembly.

It is an important object of the present invention to provide a prefolded bellows strip in which the marginal edges are prefolded to be automatically concealed during the regular stitching operation, and in which the operator need not manually fold a connector section from the base of the strip or in which there is danger of an irregular and unsatisfactory final appearance.

A feature resulting from the attainment of this object is the provision of a prefolded bellows strip, which makes possible aneat and absolutelyuniform result, for pockets and other articles, in which a connector and a base section are preformed so that the former is uniformly shorter and con cealed by the latter and in which with one form one or both of these sections are provided with preformed marginal fold; and in another modifled form the bellows strip is of two-piece structure differing from the other mainly in the provision of a separate binder or edging strip to envelop the other edge of the base section and edge of the body to which the bellows strip is applied.

One of the most important objects of the present invention is the provision of an improved method of manufacturing pockets and other articles with a bellows strip in which 'the several operations now usually performed by expensive and highly skilled workers may be reduced to a single inexpensive operation which may be performed by comparatively unskilled workers, and which will result in a highly satisfactory and uniform product.

A feature of the present invention is the achievement of this desideratum.

Another important object of the present invention is the provision of apparatus to advantageously carry out the method of the present invention, whereby prefolded strips may be opened, lapped, and otherwise handled and guided with accuracy, relative to the body of an article to which it is desired that it be secured and even though there is a decided tendency of the prefolded strip to always assume its original pressed or formed position; to accurately guide and lap an edge portion of the strip around the edge of the article, and to maintain the marginal edge of the connector section of the strip within or inside the marginal edge ofthe article.

Features resulting from the accomplishment of are the provision of an opening, foldmg, and guiding mechanism which: may be easily and quickly secured in operative position on the sewing machine or removed therefrom to expose fully the looper and other under operating mechanlsm; accurately guides a body or main ply toward the sewing mechanism; opens superposed base and connector sections of a bellows strip without wrinkling; laps an edge of the bellows strip around an edge of the body uniformly;

guides the associated body with the opened and lapped bellows strip in a straight line to the sewing mechanism where they may be sewed together by a line of stitching passing through the lapped portion of the bellows strip near the outer edge of the body and/ or by a line of stitching passing through the base section near the crease line forming the superposed and integral connector section so that the latter line of stitching will be concealed by the connector section when the latter again assumes its folded or formed position. Most of these structural features are likewise embodied in a slightly modifledform of mechanism for applying a two-piece bellows strip edging to the body of a pocket, or other article.

The characteristic features and advantages of my improvements will appear more fully from the following description and accompanying drawings illustrating the present preferred embodiments of my invention, in which:

Figure 1 is a top view showing part of a sewing machine work plate, feeding and stitching instru- Fi 1B is a section view taken on line BB of Fig. 1.

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary front view of the sewing machine.

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the folding and guidingattachment holding a portion of one of the pockets, with a bellows strip stitched thereto.

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the folding and guiding attachment similar to Fig. 3, but without the work to more clearly show the working parts, applied to the removable slide plate of a sewing machine.

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view taken on line 5-5 of Fig. 3.

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view taken on line 6-6 of Fig. 4.

Fig. '7 is a perspective view of parts of a garment made with the present invention.

Fig. 8 shows the bellows strip.

Fig. 9 is a perspective view of the adjustable slide plate.

Fig. 10 is a top plan view of a modified form of the present invention wherein a two-piece edging is applied.

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary view of a garment section made with the modified form of the invention shown in Fig. 10.

Before describing in detail the improved method and apparatus provided by the present invention,,and in order to facilitate an understanding thereof, it is desirable to describe a novel bellows strip I! which forms an important part of the present invention and greatly facilitates the economical and uniform production of bellows pockets and the like. This bellows strip is preferably made of bias or elastic fabric, in strip form, which in its initial stage is substantially as shown in the fragmentary sectional view 8A. During the course of preparing the bellows strip the rough or outer edges I21; and l2b of the strip'are folded back onto one face of the strip to provide marginal sections i3 and I4. Also, the strip is provided with an off-center fold or crease I1 spaced between the marginal sections i3 and Hi to divide the strip l2 into an integral connector section I5 and base section It as shown in the fragmentary sectional views 80 and 8D with the connector and base sections preferably in superposed relation. Preferably the marginal section M of the base section I6is offset or spaced from the marginal I section'l3 of the connector section I to provide around an edge of a body, and so that when the material for lapping the marginal section I4 latter is accomplished the marginal sections I3 and I4 will be closely adjacent to each other. Referring particularly to Figs. 1 through 9 inclusive, a now preferred form of the attachment IB will be described in detail first. The main function of this attachment, the structural de- \tails of which are about to be described, is to guide-the prefolded bellows strip I2 and .an edge Iilof abody 20, such as the main section-of a pocket 2!, to a sewing mechanism 22, and to concurrently open, guide, and sew the prefolded bellows strip I2 to the body in a very accurate and particular relation. To this end it opens the strip I2 so that a superposed connector section I5 will not be sewed to a base section I6 thereof and at the same time laps the marginal section I4 of the strip'around the edge I9 of the body, as the body 2|] and strip I2 approach the sewing mechanism 22 whereupon the lapped and base sections may be sewed to the bod A complete showing and detaile description of the sewing machine is deemed unnecessary,

- since the present invention is applicable to various sewing machines now in the field. For the purpose of illustration it is shown as applied to the well-known Metropolitan machines, for example, as more completely shown in the U. S. Patent No. 1,344,284, granted June 22, 1920.

Briefly, for illustrating the present invention, there is shown a sewing machine consisting of a base 23, having an overhanging arm and head 24, in which is operated the sewing mechanism including a needle bar 25 in the/usual manner,

carrying needles 26 and 21. A presser foot 28 cooperates with a feed dog 29 operating through openings 29' in a throat plate 30 carried by a cloth plate 3I secured to lugs 32 of the base 23 of the machine. Operation of the feed dog29 is effected by any of the now well-known feed dog driving mechanisms. Cooperating with the needles 26 and 2l in the now well-known manner to form stitches are'loopers' 26a and 27a carried by looper mechanism 38 to complete the sewing .Znechanism 22 which may be of any well-known While the improvements are shown applied to a Metropolitan two needle double thread chain stitch machine, the invention is not limited to two needle stitching or to chain stitch machines. It can be used with other types of machines as well. The needles 26 and 21, operate through needle holes 261) and 21b in the throat plate 30 which supports the materials during the stitching operation. Preferably the throat plate 30 is provided with a cut-out 33 close to the stitchlng position to conveniently accommodate a detachable and removable base plate 34 that may closely fit against an edge 33. This base plate has extensions 35 resting upon lips 36 of the cloth plate 3I so that the base plate is supported flush with the top surface of the cloth plate 3I and the throat plate 30, leaving a smooth surface over which the work is fed. This base plate I 34 is secured in place by thumb screws 31 or by providing spring clips, to prevent shifting thereof during the operation of the machine. Because the base plate is of the shape and form illustrated it is very convenient for threading, clean- :2 ing instrumentalities are made accessible. Also,

fingers can be used for threading the loopers without the use of tweezers orotherinstruments and this proves a great convenience and economy during use of the machine. Moreover, it permits the removal ofthe attachment as often as required; and, its replacement in exact registration with the stitching and feeding instrumentalities is insured. This is especially useful in connection with machines employing loopers and looper threads or in the vertical hook type of. machine employing bobbins for making the wellknown lockstitch, since it is necessary or desirable to have free access to the bobbins each time the bobbin thread is exhausted.

Coming now to the structural details of the attachment I8; in its present preferred form the attachment comprises an edge guide plate 40 seconnection 4I including elongated slots'4la. and screws .4Ib. Preferably the guide 48 is provided with a projection 42 extending beyond the base plate 34 and over the throat plate 30 into a position adjacent and parallel the presser foot 28.

As may be seen best in Fig. 4 the attachment shown in Fig. 8D to the condition shown in Fig.-

8C. Although theextension 43a is shown constructed to feed the strip I2 from a right-hand 'side, reverse it and cause it to pass through a right angle path, this is not essential. The reel or roll of strip may be placed underneath the table and fed up from the supply directly to the folder.

Overlying the base plate-34 the main guide 43 is provided with an integral flat channel 43c and contiguous upwardly curled'channel 43h of substantially flattened tubular shape, joined integrally with the extension 43a by a loop section 43d having fingers 43f and 439 to maintain the strip in registry therewith during travel.

The fiat channel 43c includes top and bottom walls 431' and 437'- respectively adapted'to confine an adjustable marginal guide 44 preferably having a plate 45 of bent metal with yawning edges secured thereto as by soldering. This adjustable marginal guide 44 is secured in any desired position laterally relative to the upwardly curled channel 4371. by suitable screws 46, threaded therein and passed through elongated slots 41 in the top' wall 43i. The upwardly curled channel 43h accommodates the marginal section I4 of the strip I2 and the adjustable marginal guide 44 accommodates the marginal section l3. Adjustment of the marginal. guidev 44, with the structure just described, makes it possible for the one attachment l8,'and main guide 43 thereof, to accommodate bellows strips I2 of various widths, and insures a location of the marginal section I4 fully in the upwardly curled channel 43h.

The main guide 43 is preferably secured to the guide plate 40 by riveting, soldering or'the like so that it may be shifted, located and held on the base plate 34 in various lateral positions by the screw and slot connection 4|.

The adjustable marginal guide 44 may be of one-piece construction as shown in Fig. 9 having cured to the base plate 34by a screw and slot an integral V channel 44a as apparent in this figure. The screws 46 are threaded into the marginal guide in order to lock the plate in position, this end being achieved when the heads of the screws are drawn into engagement with the upper face of the top wall 431'.

An inner curled wall 48 on the channel 43h accommodates the edge I9 of the body 20 or the like, as may be seen best in Figs. 3 and 4. Thus, the top wall 431' may serve as a table for the body 20 and the inner curled wall 48 will guide the edge I9 of the body into predetermined relationship with the marginal section I4 as it issues from the curled channel 43h. However, to provide additional larger table service for the body 20 to insure a smooth and easy travel thereof into the attachment I8 an extension plate 49 is provided. This extension plate may be welded, soldered, or otherwise secured to the top wall 43i and it is preferably provided with elongated slots 41' adapted to clear the heads of the screws 46 so that the latter will not interfere with the free passage of the body.

Preferably a top plate 59, overlying the curled channel 43h and the body 20 at the curled wall 48 is provided to assist in guiding the edge I9 to the curled wall 48 and to keep the body flat on the extension plate 49 and/or on the table formed by the top wall 431'.

With the structure in the attachment I8 so far described it is possible to accurately guide the body 20 and to concurrently open, guide and lap a bellows strip I2 relative to the body 29, so that the two may be accurately directed to a sewing mechanism 22 to be stitchedtogether.

However, the attachment provides additional mechanism to prevent the bellows strip I2 from puckering, to insure a straight line travel thereof and to neatly fold or lap the marginal section I4 completely around the edge I9 of the body 29 and down fiat onto the face of the body. It accomplishes this desideratum at a point in very close proximity with the presser foot 28 and feed dog 29, and with the sewing mechanism 22, so that there is no danger of the strip and body moving out of desired predetermined relationship.

This auxiliary mechanism greatly improves the product and insures a uniform result. It includes the provision of a cut-out 52 in at least the top wall 431', and if desired the bottom wall 437', adapted to accommodate a yielding main finger 53. If desired this main finger 53 may be formed from the top wall 43i when the cut-out 52 is made. However, it is preferable to have it in the form of a separate pi'eee soldered or secured by rivets 54' to the top wall 432'. This finger is flexed or bent toward the base plate 34. to maintain the strip I2 in the flattened condition shown in Fig. 80.

If preferred, and in order to insure a longer flexing life to the main finger 53 it may be provided with an integral looped over extension 54 forming a secondary finger 55 pressing down upon the main finger 53. The relation of the finger 53 (and 55) to the opened strip I2 and body 20 is clearly shown in Fig. 3. While the finger 53 may fully overlie the crease I'I, it is preferably directly adjacent thereto as shown.

A .complementary structure to insure a uniform product includes the provision of a yielding finger 51 adapted to receive the marginal section I4 after the latter is folded or lapped around the outer edge I9 of the body 20, to accurately lay the marginal section inwardly a predetermined extent from the edge I 9 and fiat upon the top face of the body 29 as shown in Fig. 3.

The finger 51 yieldingly accommodates itself, and the marginal section I 4 which it carries, to divers thicknesses of body 20. The finger 51 is provided with a return loop 51' as is clearly apparent in Fig. 5. The latter figure clearly illustrates the relationship of the body 20 and the strip I2 and clearly shows the relationship of the adjustable marginal guide 44, main finger 53, and the yielding finger 51.

As with the finger 53 the finger 51 may be formed from the top curled section 43h or may be in the form of a separate strip soldered or otherwise secured thereto.

The method of the present invention includes the steps of: opening the bellows strip I2 so that the connector section I is no longer superposed upon the base section; concurrently feeding body and strip, such as 20 and I2; lapping a marginal section I4 of the strip I2 around the edge I9 of the body 20; flattening and guiding the strip relative to the body; and sewing the strip and body together by the line of stitching 60 and/or 6|.

During the performance of this method, and according to the structure provided by the present invention, the channel 43b opens the superposed sections'of the bellows strip I2 and the fiat channel 430 guides the open strip in a straight line toward the sewing mechanism 22. Concurrently the yielding finger 53 (and 55) presses the strip I2 flat and assists in guiding the strip in a straight line while at the same time preventing the strip from puckering. The body 20 is moved across the top wall 431' and plate 49 until the edge I9 engages and is guided by the curled inner wall 48, so that the edge I9 travels in the same straight line as the strip I2. As the strip I2 and body 29 are moved in a straight line toward the sewing mechanism the upwardly curled channel 43h'and channel 58 carried by the yielding finger 51 serve to lap the marginal section I4 of the strip I2 around the edge I9 of the body 20 to a point very close to the needles 26 and 21. As the body 20 and strip I2 issue from the attachment I8 the lapped marginal section I4 is secured 4 around the edge I9 and to both faces of the body 20 by a line of stitches. formed by the needle 21 and looper 21a.

At the same time the base section I6 may be sewed to the body 20 at a marginally spaced point preferably immediately adjacent the crease I I with a second line of stitching 6| formed by the needle 26 and looper 26a. Both of these lines of stitching may be used to secure the strip I2 to the body 20 or the line of stitching 60 alone may be used. Great economies, and a product free from puckering results from sewing both lines of stitching at the one time, and while the strip I2 Is laid out accurately by the fingers 53 and 51.

From the foregoing it is apparent that the present invention provides a method of forming a bellows pocket 2| or the like, complete and ready for attachment to the main body of the garment all in a single handling, and in a manner to insure an economical and uniformed product.

Figs. and 11 disclose a modified form of the present invention for applying a two-piece bellows strip 66, instead of the one-piece strip I2,

to the edge I9 of the body 20. This two-plece' bellows strip 66 includes a main strip 61 and a,

binding or lapping strip 68. The main strip 61 includes a base section 69 and an integral and preferably superposed connector section 10 divided by an offset fold or crease 'II. Preferably the connector section III is provided with a mar- 5 vided with an infolded marginal edge, to be laid;

upon the face of the body 20, for economy this is not done. separate piece preferably having infolded marginal sections I3 and I4, when the strip has raw 10 edges or when it is desired to hide the selvedge. In order to apply this form of strip to a body a modified attachment I5 shown in Fig. 10 is now preferably used. As shown this attachment includes a modified base plate I6 securable to the base '23 in the same manner as the preferred form of attachment I 8 already described in detail. A flattened tubular channel '11 is provided to open and guide the main strip 61, as shown in Fig. 10. This channel is similar to the channel 430 of the first form of the invention, difl'ering primarily by not including the contiguous upwardly curled channel 33 which also serves to locate the body 20. Lacking the upwardly curled channel 43h of the preferred form, it is not ca- 25 pable of lapping a marginal section of the main strip BI around an edge I9 of the body 2%. Preferably the channel 11 is provided with a longitudinally extending slot I8 adapted to receive the latter and insure an accurate and straight line travel, of themain strip bl through the attachment I5. a

To hidethe raw edge IQ of the body 20 and edge 19 of the main strip 61 .the attachment I5 35 e the strip 68 fully around the edges as is clearly apparent in'the upper right-hand corner of- Fig. 10. This binder receives the lapping strip 68 which is usually made of bias or elastic mate- 40 rial, and lays the marginal sections It and "it thereof toward opposi faces of the body 20. The binder is" provided with a plate 82 having a screw and slot connection 32' to the base plate It so that the binder may be shifted and held in various lateral positions relative to the main channel TI and base 23. The'binder 86 is at its nose end '83 provided with a conventional U- shaped channel (not shown) which-effects the final u-shape folding of the strip 68 and also.

the same manner as the preferred form herein-- before described in greater detail.

The base plate I6 may be provided with a cut-out -85 adapted to accommodate the main channel 11 so that a top face 86 thereof is substantially parallel with the top of the base plate to facilitate feeding thebody 20 and directing the edge Hi to the binder 80. Preferably this form of attachment I5 is adapted to permit shift-- as ing of the main channel 11 into various lateral positions relative to the sewing mechanism, after the base plate 16 is secured to. the sewing machine. For this purpose the main channel is provided with one or more fingers 81 fitting into 70 suitable recesses 88 in the base plate I6, and is held in the various desired lateral positions as by a screw and slot connection 89.

The method of forming a bellows pocket or the like with this form of the invention'includes 7'6 The lapping strip 68 includes av the fold or crease Ii a limited extent to guide includes a conventional binder 30 adapted to fold the steps of opening the bellows strip 81 I that a connector section III will be in an opened condition instead of a normally superposed condition relative to the integral base section 69; feeding the so-opened bellows strip toward-the sewing mechanism; guiding the edge I9 01 a body 20 in accurate predetermined relation with the edge I9 of the open bellows strip; lapping a separate binding strip around the edge IQ of the .body 20 and edge I9 of the main strip 61; and

concurrently sewing the binding strip 68 and the main strip 61 to the body 20 either with one or two lines of stitching. Thus, the present invention provides an economical method of making bellows pockets or the like with an edge finish including two separate strips all in a single handling. After the stitches are completed and as the work moves free of the sewing mechanism the connector section It again assumes its superposed position relative to the base section 69.

Variations and modifications may be made within the scope of this invention and portions of the improvements'niay be used without others.

Having described the invention what is claimed as new is:

l. The method of affixing a prefolded bellows strip divided into superposed base and connector sections by a substantially central crease, to the edge of a body which consists in the steps of opening the connector section relative to the base section; lapping a marginal portion of the base section around an edge of the body; and of stitching the lapped marginal portion at the edge of the body andof concurrently stitching the base section to the body near the crease and along a line spaced from the edge of the body.

. 3. The method of afllxing a prefolded main strip, divided into superposed connector and base sections by a substantially central crease, and a binding strip to the edge of a body, which consists in the steps of opening the connector section relative to the base section; guiding a L body to the opened strip; lapping a binding strip around. an edge of the main strip and edge of the body; and of stitching the lapped binding strip, main strip and body together. 4. In a sewing machine for attaching a bellows'strlp which is folded upon itself to provide superposed connector and base sections and has a marginal section, to a body, the combination of guide means for opening the superposed sections of the strip; a curled section in said guide means for locating an edge of the body and for lapping the marginal section of the strip .around the edge of the body; a spring finger associated with the guide means for pressing out the opened sections of the strip; a spring finger inline with the curled sectionfor receiving the folded marginal section and laying it upon a face of the body; an adjustable plate in the first named guide means for confining and guiding bellows strips of various widths in the main guide means; an extension on said guide means for receiving-and opening said bellows strip in an inverted condition andfor leading it to the main guide at an angle'to the longitudinal axis thereof and changing the strip I from an inverted to a right-sided position; arid stitching means positioned to secure the bellows strip and body together when the normally superposed connector and base sections of the strip are open.

5. In a sewing machine for attaching a strip which has a marginal section, to a body, the combination of a substantially flat channel guide means having a top and a bottom wall, for receiving the strip and guiding the same at one face of said body;.a curled section on said channel guide means for locating an edge of said body and for receiving said marginal section and lapping the same around said edge and over the other face of said body; a yielding finger in line with said curled section, having walls at an angle to each other for enveloping the outside of the lapped marginal section and laying the same on the body; and stitching means adjacent said finger for securing said lapped marginal section and said strip to said body at opposite faces thereof.

6. In a sewing machine for attaching a bellows strip which is folded upon itself to provide normally superposed connector and base sections and has a marginal section, to a body, the combination of a substantially flat channel guide means having a top and a bottom wall, for receiving the bellows strip and maintaining the normally superposed connector and base sections open relative to each other at one face of said body; a curled section on said channel guide means for locating an edge of said body and for receiving said marginal section and lapping the same around said edge and over the otherface of said body; yielding means associated with said channel guide means for pressing out said opened connector and base sections, said yielding means overlying said bottom wall and spaced laterally from saidcurled section; and stitching means for securing said lapped marginal section and said base section to said body at opposite faces thereof.

7. In a sewing machine for attaching a bellows strip which is folded upon itself to provide normally superposed connector and base sections and has a marginal section, to a body, the combination of a substantially flat channel guide means having a top and a bottom wall, for receiving the bellows strip and maintaining the normally superposed connector and base sections open relative to each other at one face of said body; a

curled section on said channel guide means for locating an edge of said body and for receiving said marginal section and lapping the same around said edge and over the other face of said body; and stitching means including a pair of needles located respectively in line with said curled section and spaced laterally relative to said curled section, for concurrently and respectively securing said lapped marginal section to said body at one face and said base section to said body at the opposite face thereof.

8. In a sewing machine for attaching a bellows strip which is folded upon itself to provide normally superposed connector and base sections and has a marginal section, to a body, the combination of a substantially flat channel guide means having a top and a bottom wall, for receiving the bellows strip and maintaining the normally superposed connector and base sections open relative to each other at one face of said body; a curled section on said channel guide means for locating an edge of said body and for receiving said marginal section and lapping the same around said edge and over the other face of said body; laterally adjustable means in said guide means and spaced laterally from said curled lapping section, for confining and guiding the opened connector and base sections therein; yielding means associatedwith said channel guide means and located between said curled section and said adjustable means for pressing out said opened connector and base sections; and stitching means for securing said'lapped marginal section and said base section to said body at opposite faces thereof.

9. In a sewing machine for attaching a bellows strip which is folded upon itself to provide normally superposed connector and base sections and has a marginal section, to a body, the combination of a substantially fiat channel guide means having a top and a bottom wall, for receiving the bellows strip and maintaining-the normally superposed connector and base sections open relative toeach other at one face of said body; a curledsection on said channel guide means for locating an edge of said body and for receiving said marginal section and lapping the same around said edge and over the other face of said body; means spaced laterally from said curled section, for confining said opened connector and base sections in said channel; a spring finger associated with said channel guide means and located between said confining means and said curled section for pressing out said opened connector and base sections; and stitching means for securing said lapped marginal section and said base section to said body at opposite faces Iii 

